I-Derm DMs: Mangaki ama-acid e-skincare okufanele ngiwasebenzise esimisweni sami?

Ama-acids angenile cishe kuzo zonke izigaba zemikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba. Njengamanje etafuleni lami lokugqoka, i-cleaser, i-toner, i-essence, i-serum kanye ama-pads exfoliating zonke ziqukethe uhlobo oluthile lwe-hydroxy acid (okungukuthi. I-AHA noma i-BHA). Lezi zithako ziyasebenza futhi zinikeza izinzuzo ezinkulu esikhumbeni, kodwa futhi zingabangela ukoma nokucasuka uma zisetshenziswe kaningi noma ngokungalungile. Ngenkathi kulingeka ukufuna ukuqoqa zonke izinhlobo zokudla lokho iqukethe i-asidi (futhi ngokusobala ngikwazi lokhu ngokuhlangenwe nakho) awufuni ukukwenza ngokweqisa.

Ngisanda kukhuluma naye UDkt. Patricia Wexler, udokotela wesikhumba ogunyazwe yibhodi eNew York, ukuze athole ukuthi mingaki imikhiqizo yokukhipha isikhunta engasetshenziswa ekwelashweni okukodwa. Funda iseluleko sakhe sochwepheshe. 

Ingabe imikhiqizo equkethe ama-asidi ingafakwa izendlalelo?

Ayikho impendulo yebo noma cha lapha; Inani le-exfoliation isikhumba sakho esingasingatha lincike ezintweni eziningana. Okokuqala, uhlobo lwesikhumba sakho, kusho uDkt. Wexler. Isikhumba esinezinduna, esinamafutha ngokuvamile sibekezelela ama-asidi kangcono kunesikhumba esomile noma esizwelayo. Nokho, uDkt. Wexler uphawula ukuthi “ama-acids kufanele asetshenziswe ngokusesilinganisweni” kungakhathaliseki ukuthi hlobo luni lwesikhumba sakho. 

Ezinye izici ezingase zibe nomthelela ekubekezeleni kwakho yilezi: iphesenti le-asidi oyisebenzisayo nokuthi ngabe usebenzisa okokuthambisa okuqinisa umgoqo. "Kunamafutha abalulekile esikhumbeni sakho ongafuni ukuwasusa," kusho uDkt. Wexler. Ukukhipha lawa mafutha abalulekile akubangeli nje kuphela ukuphelelwa amanzi emzimbeni futhi kushiya umgoqo wesikhumba engcupheni yokulimala, kodwa futhi kungenza isikhumba sakho sikhiqize i-sebum eyengeziwe ukuze sinxephezele. Isithako esimanzisa uDkt. Wexler utusa ukusebenzisa ngemva kokusikhipha i-hyaluronic acid. Naphezu kwegama layo, lesi sithako asiyona i-asidi exfoliating, ngakho-ke ingasetshenziswa ngokuphepha nama-AHA nama-BHA. 

I-asidi eyodwa evame ukusetshenziswa nsuku zonke (ikakhulukazi kubantu abanesikhumba esinamafutha) i-salicylic acid (BHA). "Bambalwa kakhulu abantu abangezwani nayo, futhi isiza kakhulu ekuqiniseni nasekuvuleni izimbotshana," kusho yena. Lokhu kungaba usizo ikakhulukazi ekugcineni isikhumba sakho sihlanzekile uma uvamise ukugqoka imaski yokuzivikela. 

Uma ufuna ukusebenzisa enye i-asidi, njenge-AHA, ukuze ulungise ithoni engalingani noma ukuthungwa, uDkt Wexler uncoma ukusebenzisa i-asidi emnene futhi usebenzise umkhiqizo othambisayo ngokushesha. Isibonelo, ungasebenzisa isihlanzi nsuku zonke esiqukethe i-salicylic acid (zama I-Vichy Normaderm PhytoAction Gel Yokuhlanza Okujulile), bese kuthi i-serum ene-glycolic acid (isibonelo, I-L'Oréal Paris Derm Intensive 10% Glycolic Acid) (nsuku zonke noma kabili noma kathathu ngesonto, kuye ngesikhumba sakho) bese ugcoba okokuthambisa njenge I-CeraVe Moisturizing Cream. Yakhiwe nge-ceramides ne-hyaluronic acid ukuvikela umgoqo wesikhumba. 

Ungazi kanjani uma u-overexfoliating

Ububomvu, ukucasuka, ukulunywa, nanoma yikuphi ukusabela okungekuhle yizimpawu zokucweba ngokweqile. “Akukho okusebenzisayo okufanele kubangele lezi zinkinga,” kusho uDkt. Wexler. Uma uhlangabezana nanoma yimiphi yale miphumela, libazisa ukukhipha isikhumba kuze kube yilapho isikhumba sakho saphola bese uhlola kabusha uhlobo lwakho lokukhishwa kwesikhumba kanye nokukhathazeka kwesikhumba. Kubalulekile ukunaka isikhumba sakho futhi uqaphele ukuthi sisabela kanjani kumaphesenti athile e-asidi kanye nemvamisa yokusetshenziswa. Kuhlale kungcono kakhulu ukuqala kancane futhi ungasheshi (okungukuthi, iphesenti le-asidi ephansi kanye nemvamisa ephansi yokusebenzisa) futhi uthuthukise ngendlela isikhumba sakho esidinga ngayo. Uma ungabaza, thintana nodokotela wesikhumba ukuze uthole uhlelo lomuntu ngamunye.