Hlangana nosokhemisi wezimonyo ozinikele ekukhuthazeni iqiniso mayelana ne-skincare ku-Instagram

Wake wazibuza ukuthi ubani onesibopho sokwenza amafomula akho imikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba eyintandokazi? Impendulo ingososayensi, ikakhulukazi osokhemisi bezimonyo. Ukudala iresiphi ephelele isayensi ukuthi Esther Olu (aka The Melanin Chemist) unothando. I-Formulator evela eCalifornia udale abalandeli benkundla yezokuxhumana ukunikeza abantu ukuqonda kulo msebenzi oshintsha njalo futhi debunking isithako izinganekwane nge-infographics ejabulisayo nefundisayo. Muva nje sibe nethuba lokuxoxa naye nokufunda okwengeziwe ngalo msebenzi ojabulisayo. Thola ukuthi kusho ukuthini ngempela ukuba usokhemisi wezimonyo nokuthi kungani u-Olu ekuthola kubalulekile ukwabelana ngolwazi lwakhe lwesayensi nabalandeli bakhe. 

Ngakho-ke, izinto zokuqala kuqala, benzani ngempela osokhemisi bezimonyo? 

Ama-cosmetologists asebenzela ukubona ukuthi yiziphi izithako ezingahlanganiswa ukwenza imikhiqizo ethile. Ngisiza ukwenza imikhiqizo esukela kokunakekelwa kwesikhumba kuye kombala nokunakekelwa kwezinwele. Uyisho, ngisebenza ngayo. Sihlala siqhamuka nezindlela zokupheka ezahlukene sisebenzisa ikhemistri nolwazi lwethu ukuze sizithuthukise futhi ekugcineni senze umkhiqizo ongcono kakhulu utholakale.

Yini eyakwenza ukuba ube usokhemisi wezimonyo? Ingabe ubulokhu ukhangwa ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba nobuhle?

Angizange njalo ngicwile ebuhleni. Uma ngikhuluma iqiniso, intshisekelo yami kuyo ayizange iqale ngaze ngaya ekolishi. Bengibonisana nohlobo lokunakekelwa kwesikhumba, ngokwezwi nezwi ngiphakamisa ukuthi abantu basebenzise okokuthambisa okuthile. Ukusebenza nalo mkhiqizo kwaba yisikhathi esichazayo kimi. Ngemva kwalokho, ngaba nesithakazelo kakhulu ebuhleni. Ngakho, lapho sengicishe ngiphothula ekolishi, ngangazi ukuthi ngangingafuni ukuhamba ngendlela evamile esikoleni sokwenza imithi, ngangifuna ukwenza enye into. 

Kumakhemikhali aphezulu, wenza amakhemikhali amaningi ezinto eziphilayo - ngandlela thize, kufana nobunjiniyela obuhlanekezelwe - futhi ngangifisa ukwazi ukuthi engikufundayo kungasetshenziswa kanjani ebuhleni. Ngemva kwe-googling, ngafunda mayelana ne-cosmetic chemistry kanti okunye kungumlando.

Iyiphi ingxenye enzima kakhulu yokuba umthuthukisi wezimonyo?

Kuyangiphatha kabi uma amafomula ami ehluleka futhi angazi ukuthi inkinga ikuphi ngoba kufanele ngihlale ngakha ifomula efanayo futhi ngiyilungisa kancane ukuze ngithole ukuthi yini ebangela inkinga. Kungase kuphazamise ingqondo ngoba ngiqala ukucabanga ukuthi ngenza okuthile okungalungile, kodwa empeleni ifomula ngokwayo ayisebenzi. Kodwa uma ngiqonda ukuthi inkinga iyini, kuyasiza kakhulu futhi omunye wemizwa engcono kakhulu.

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Okuthunyelwe okwabiwe ngu-Esther Olu (@themelaninchemist)

Kuthatha isikhathi esingakanani ukwenza ifomula yokunakekela isikhumba kusukela ekuqaleni?

Okungenani unyaka, kodwa kungathatha isikhathi eside. Kusukela kumqondo kuya ekuqaliseni, ngingasho unyaka owodwa kuya kwemibili. 

Ingabe uvame ukuphindaphinda kane noma kahlanu uze ube nefomula ephelele?

Yebo! Kwesinye isikhathi ngisho nangaphezulu, ngoba emsebenzini wami wamanje ngisebenza namakhasimende kanye nemikhiqizo. Ake sithi ngicabanga ukuthi amagama abhalwe kahle, kodwa iklayenti liyazama futhi alikuthandi. Kufanele ngibuyele ebhodini lokudweba futhi ngihlale ngilungisa kuze kube yilapho bejabule ngomphumela. Lapho sengilungise okuthile izikhathi ezingaphezu kwezingu-20 - konke kwakuncike ekutheni iklayenti lanelisekile ngefomula. 

Yiziphi izithako ojabulela ukusebenza ngazo kakhulu?

Ngiyayithanda i-glycerin ngoba iyisithako esilula kakhulu esingasetshenziselwa izinhloso ezahlukahlukene. Akuyona nje i-humectant enhle kakhulu, kodwa futhi yenza iresiphi ibe lula ukuyilungisa. Isibonelo, uma nginenkinga yokuhlanganisa izithako, i-glycerin izosiza ukuzenza bushelelezi. Ngiyayithanda nendlela efaka ngayo amanzi esikhumbeni sami. Ngicabanga ukuthi lesi kungase kube isithako sami engisithandayo ukusebenza ngaso. Ngiyakujabulela futhi ukusebenza nama-esters [uhlobo lwe-emollient] ngenxa yendlela athinta ngayo isikhumba. Abuye aguquguquke kakhulu: ungasebenzisa ama-esters ukuze udale izimonyo nokwakheka kokunakekelwa kwesikhumba.

Yimiphi imibono eyiphutha evamile oyizwayo ngezithako zobuhle noma imikhiqizo? 

Nginomuzwa wokuthi uma kuziwa ekunakekeleni isikhumba, abantu bacabanga ukuthi kuhlale kunempendulo elungile noma engalungile. Ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba akukaze kube mnyama noma kumhlophe - kuyohlale kunendawo empunga. Kodwa-ke, abekho abaningi abakhuluma ngesayensi ku-inthanethi abangasusa imibono eyiphutha. Okuvamile, isibonelo, kuhlotshaniswa nama-sulfate: abantu bacabanga ukuthi uma ukwakheka kuqukethe ama-sulfate, kuzokhipha isikhumba noma izinwele ngokuzenzakalelayo. Ngokufanayo, uma usebenzisa okuthile nge-glycolic acid, kungashisa isikhumba sakho. Into efana naleyo. Yingakho ukwakheka kubaluleke kakhulu uma sicabanga ngemikhiqizo esiyisebenzisayo.

Uzisebenzisa kanjani izinkundla zakho zokuxhumana ukusabalalisa ukuqwashisa mayelana ne-cosmetic chemistry futhi wazise abantu mayelana nemibono eyiphutha yesithako?

Ngithanda ukudala i-infographics. Nginomuzwa wokuthi izinsiza ezibukwayo zisiza kakhulu, futhi ngokubona kwami ​​kulula ukuthi umuntu abone umdwebo kunombhalo nje ngoba uzofana nokuthi, "Ukhuluma ngani?" Ngiyathanda nokwenza amavidiyo ngoba ngicabanga ukuthi uma abantu bebona engikwenzayo nalokho engikhuluma ngakho, kuba lula kubo. Futhi, akuwona wonke umuntu ongabona ukuthi kwenzekani ngemuva kwezigcawu uma kuziwa kumakhemikhali wezimonyo njengoba imboni incane kakhulu. Yingakho ngithanda ukuwabuka ngaphakathi. Ngithanda ukufundisa nokwenza izinto zibe lula futhi ngenze abantu bahleke ukuze bathathe izinto kalula. 

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Okuthunyelwe okwabiwe ngu-Esther Olu (@themelaninchemist)

Kungani kubalulekile kuwe ukuthi uguqule ukulandisa okuphathelene nale mibono eyiphutha?

Kwehlela ekufakeni ukwesaba. Ngicabanga ngalo bhubhane kanye nendlela ukwesaba okuye kwabusa ngayo ukucabanga kwabantu iminyaka emibili. Lokhu kwesaba kwenzeka nangezithako zokunakekela isikhumba. Sekufike ezingeni lapho abantu becabanga ukuthi into elula njengokuthi i-moisturizer izobabulala ngesithako esisodwa. Ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba kufanele kube mnandi. Kungakho ngifuna ukulungisa kabusha ukucabanga kwethu sisebenzisa isayensi, ngoba ikhona ngesizathu. Ngicabanga ukuthi ukukhuluma amaqiniso kusiza abantu ukuthi bajabule kakhulu ngezinto futhi bazizwe belula ngazo.

Imboni yonobuhle iyonke inomlando wokungahlanganisi abantu abaningi. Eminyakeni yakamuva, sibone ushintsho ekubukeni kwabathengi, ngemibala ehlukahlukene yethunzi kanye nemikhiqizo eyengeziwe edizayinelwe isikhumba esincibilikile, kodwa iyini impatho yemboni mayelana nokwakheka?

Ngicabanga ukuthi nakanjani senze inqubekelaphambili ethile, kodwa ngizwa sengathi kukhona esikuphuthele. Njengamanje ngiwukuphela kwe-African American enkampanini yami yonke, futhi bekufana enkampanini yami yangaphambilini. Kwakujabulisa ngempela ukuthi inhlangano yeBlack Lives Matter yashintsha kanjani indaba kancane, kodwa okwesikhashana. Imikhiqizo nezinkampani zathi zizokwenza izinguquko futhi zilethe abantu abaningi abanemibala endaweni yebhizinisi, kodwa lokho kuziphatha kubonakala kuhlale izinyanga ezimbalwa bese kuyancipha. Ngizwa sengathi abantu basebenzisa i-[Black Lives Matter] njengethrendi, hhayi ngoba belukhathalela ngempela ushintsho noma ukufakwa. 

Engikuthola kuthakazelisa futhi ukuthi iGeneration Z ngisho nezinkulungwane zeminyaka ayikuqondi lokhu. Sifuna ukubona ukuhlanganisa okwengeziwe, futhi sesiqala ukufinyelela kumabhrendi kaningi sibuza izinto ezinjengokuthi "kungani ububanzi bethunzi balo mkhiqizo bukhawulelwe kangaka?" njalo njalo. Imboni yezimonyo isivele incane kakhulu, kodwa sidinga abantu abaningi bemibala kulo mkhakha ukuze bakhombise ukumeleleka okwengeziwe. Bheka i-sunscreen - siyazi ukuthi ama-sunscreens amaminerali avame ukushiya umbala ophuzi kakhulu ezithombeni zesikhumba ezimnyama. Sidinga abantu abaningi abebala elizosebenza emkhakheni wokuvikela ilanga ukuze lezi zimo zithuthuke. Ngakho-ke yebo, ngizwa sengathi senze inqubekela phambili, kodwa sidinga inqubekelaphambili, inqubekelaphambili engaguquki.

Yiziphi izinyathelo okudingeka zithathwe ukuze kuhlukanise umkhakha we-cosmetic chemistry?

Kunemikhawulo eminingi ebekwe kubantu bemibala nabesifazane uma kukhulunywa nge-STEM ngokujwayelekile. Ngicabanga ukuthi kudingeka ukufinyelela okwengeziwe - ngokusebenzisa imifundaze nezinkampani ezinkulu - ukukhombisa ukuthi batshala imali ku-STEM yabesifazane. Isibonelo, i-Society of Cosmetic Chemists inikeza i-Madame CJ Walker Scholarship kwabancane abameleli kancane. I-scholarship ayisizi kuphela ukukhokhela izifundo zabo, kodwa futhi igqamisa impumelelo yabo, enikeza abamukeli ukuxhumana ezinkampanini ezinkulu. Sidinga okuningi kwalokhu futhi ngicabanga ukuthi kufanele kuqale ngezinkampani ezinkulu. Izinkampani kufanele zitshale imali ekufinyeleleni abantu futhi ziqwashise ngokubaluleka kwe-STEM. Ukuqwashisa kuzokwenza umthelela ngempela. 

Ngokuphathelene namakhemikhali wezimonyo ikakhulukazi, ngingathanda ukuthi ama-cosmetic conglomerates amakhulu asabalalise igama ngokwenza amavidiyo abonise ukuthi iyini i-cosmetic chemistry futhi ngenze abantu babe nentshisekelo. Abanye ozakwethu bafaka amavidiyo anjengalawa ezinkundleni zokuxhumana futhi abantu bawathakasela kakhulu, ngakho-ke ngicabanga ukuthi ukuphuma esigcawini esibanzi kuzokwenza abantu bakhulume. Imithombo yezokuxhumana inomthelela omkhulu ezimpilweni zethu, ngakho-ke uma abantu abaningi abathintekayo ekhemistry yezimonyo beyisebenzisa njengendlela yemfundo nokuqwashisa, nakanjani kuzokwenza abantu bakhulume futhi benze isithakazelo ensimini.  

Isiphi iseluleko ongasinikeza umuntu ofuna ukuphishekela umsebenzi we-cosmetic chemistry?

Hlala uvulekele ukufunda ngoba isayensi ihlala iguquguquka. Kunemikhakha eminingi kakhulu kumakhemikhali wezimonyo, okuhlanganisa i-sunscreen, izimonyo nemikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba, ngakho-ke ngingakucebisa ukuthi ungazikhawuli komunye ngoba ungafunda okuningi. Okubaluleke kakhulu, ungesabi ukwehluleka ngoba kwesinye isikhathi uzofeyila ifomula. Ukuphikelela kuyisihluthulelo. Ngicabanga ukuthi ukwehluleka kuyinto enhle ukufunda kukho futhi kunomvuzo kakhulu kunanoma yini uma ufunda ekwehlulekeni.

Imuphi umkhiqizo wobuhle oyintandokazi yakho yesikhathi sonke?

Umkhiqizo engiwuthandayo wokunakekela isikhumba njengamanje I-Sachi Skin Ursolic Acid & Retinal Overnight Reform. Kuyabiza impela kodwa kuyasiza ngezinduna zami futhi ngicabanga ukuthi kuyafaneleka. 

Iyiphi ithrendi yobuhle oyintandokazi yakho njengamanje?

Ngithanda ukuthi imboni inake kakhulu ukulungiswa kocingo. Kimina kubonakala sengathi phakathi nonyaka odlule abantu sebeqalile ukunaka kakhulu ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba, kodwa babengaqondi kahle ukuthi benzani. Ngakho-ke abantu abaningi baye bazama ukukhipha i-exfoliation, kodwa ngezinye izikhathi kakhulu futhi kugcina kuphula izithiyo zesikhumba sabo. Manje ochwepheshe abengeziwe baya ku-inthanethi ukuze bakhulume ngokubaluleka kokuvimbela isikhumba futhi babonise abantu ukuthi bangasinakekela kanjani isikhumba sabo, njengokungasebenzisi izithako eziningi ezisebenzayo ngesikhathi esisodwa. Ngakho ngicabanga ukuthi kuhle kakhulu.

Yini oyibheke ngabomvu ngo-2022?

Ngithanda ukubona ukuthi indawo yokunakekelwa kwesikhumba ibhekephi ngoba ukunakekelwa kwesikhumba se-microbiome kubikezelwa ukuthi kuwumkhuba omkhulu. Ngikulungele futhi ukufunda okwengeziwe emsebenzini wami.